Designing Sam's Rings
A Custom Engagement Ring and Wedding Band Built on Opposites
This custom engagement ring and wedding band set is one of my favorite projects to talk about, because it sums up how I like to design: two opposites, balanced into one look. I made this set for a client named Sam, and every part of it, from the stones to the finish, plays off a kind of contrast.
How We Sourced Sam's Stones: A Salt and Pepper Diamond and a John Dyer Sapphire
Sam flew in from Boston for his appointment, so I didn't want him showing up to a blank slate. Ahead of time, I pulled together a handful of stones for him to look at and react to in person, since there's no substitute for seeing a stone in real light versus scrolling a photo. Two of those stones ended up being the ones: a salt and pepper rosecut diamond, and a fantasy cut blue sapphire from John Dyer.
What Is a John Dyer Fantasy Cut Sapphire?
If you're not familiar with John Dyer, he's one of the most respected gem cutters working today, known for his "fantasy cuts." These are faceting patterns cut deeper and more freely than a standard cut, which lets the stone catch light in a way you don't get from a traditional round or step cut. Pairing that sapphire with a salt and pepper diamond was the start of the opposites theme: one stone polished and precise, the other moody and full of natural inclusions.
The Custom Jewelry Design Process, From Sketch to Final Render
Once Sam picked his stones, we moved into design. I worked off his notes and the moodboard he put together (swipe through the Instagram post if you want to see it) to get to a sketch I felt good about, then took that into 3D modeling to build it out properly. From there I sent him renders to review. He had a few small edits, nothing major, which told me we'd landed on the right direction quickly.
Where the Opposites Theme Shows Up in the Finished Rings
The whole design leans into the idea of two things that shouldn't necessarily work together, working together anyway. You can see it in the finish: one ring in a classic shine finish, the other in my signature moondust matte. You can see it in the stones: round versus fantasy cut, clear versus salt and pepper. There are even small geometric shapes worked into the back of the rings that most people won't notice unless they look closely, which is exactly the kind of detail I love hiding in a piece.
Why I Design Engagement Rings and Wedding Bands to Work Together
This project is a good example of what I mean when I say I want an engagement ring and wedding band to actually talk to each other, not just match. They should feel like two halves of one idea, even when that idea is built entirely out of contrast. That's the whole point for me: a ring isn't just an accessory, it's an artifact that tells your story, made for one of life's real ceremonial moments.
If you're working on a custom piece of your own and want to start with a stone-sourcing appointment like Sam did, reach out through the website to get something on the calendar.
Sam’s mood board:
A few of my brainstorming sketches.
Scroll through to see the technical CAD, Renders, and wax prototype:
And finally, the end results!
FAQ: Custom Engagement Rings and Wedding Bands
What is a salt and pepper diamond? It's a diamond with visible natural inclusions, little flecks and clouds inside the stone, that give it a speckled, one-of-a-kind look instead of the flawless clarity you'd get from a traditional diamond. I love working with them because no two ever look the same.
What is a fantasy cut sapphire? A fantasy cut is a non-traditional way of faceting a stone, cut deeper and more freely than a standard round or step cut. Cutters like John Dyer are known for it, and it's part of why his stones catch light so differently from anything you'd find in a typical jewelry case.
Can an engagement ring and wedding band be designed together? Yes, and it's honestly my favorite way to do it. When I design both pieces at the same time instead of pairing a wedding band on later, I can carry details like finish, stone shapes, or hidden touches across both rings so they read as one set, not two separate purchases.
How does your custom design process work? It starts with an appointment where we source and choose stones together, then I move into sketches, 3D modeling, and rendered previews before anything gets made. You'll see and sign off on the design at every step along the way.